Hyderabad 'Holi'-days

Backpack trip take - I dunno :P

Informed my dad at the last moment that I wasn't going to be around for the long weekend as Hyderbabad was calling. Not

Booked bus tickets since the bus/ train journey wasn't substantial. Traveled by Orange Travels - good stuff man! Bus travelling has become super comfy EXCEPT for those pit stops - they still have a long way to go in providing excellent services (washroom/ meals) on the route.

So private bus operators aren't allowed in the city and the bus provider arranges for a mini bus/ van to ferry you to different main junctions. Unfortunately the spot where the main bus and the mini bus halted was at a no parking zone - so we spent a good 20 minutes sweating while the bus driver was greasing the policewalla's palms :P

Finally I got off at my spot after being warned by all and sundry - haggle with the rickshaws... I witnessed how much I had to haggle when the starting range for a 2km journey is -- wait for it -- 100 bucks! Whhhhaaaa??? I said no - I'll pay you 20 bucks since I was told to start from there and work my way up. Good thing I didn't listen to the autowalla offering to go by the metre - rigged to the core they are (he offered to eat his socks if it didn't touch at least 60 bucks if we went the metre route)

Finally settled for 50 bucks and we were off. My backseat rickshaw pics are becoming the norm now on every travel and I think that's also a great way to get a feel of the city, do a quick review of the streets and people, the crazy driving styles - I had to stuff my hand in my mouth for fear off screaming :P (wonder when this rickshaw paranoia will fade???)

When you compare Mumbai and Hyderabadi autos - here we have to beg the rickshawallas to take you, there they want to take you AND your wallet - for a ride!

CG came to pick me up and wow - it's been over a year and a half since I saw him. We were great phone buddies/ colleagues at work but I think we understand each other waaaaayyyyy better now and have taken the friendship to a much higher level - thanks to the kick ass conversations and great experiences touring the city as outsiders.

He's got a lovely pad - which reminds me, even though I love living off my parents, I need to move out and find my own crib soon. A quick shower didn't relive the lousy catch in the right leg and didn't get better until the following day, but nevertheless, we headed off to Salar Jung Museum.


You love art, history and culture? Then this is definitely the place to spend a good four-five hours. Comfy shoes are the norm along with a bottle of water (midway you might start feeling hungry too) but this place is brilliant for those who wish to experience history in all its glory, from intricate carvings made of elephant tusks to some crazy (at times creepy) walking sticks, from elegant furniture to elaborate wall clocks, from exquisite murals to some real neat sculptures... tons more! Do visit (:

After exiting the museum, we went to a lovely restaurant Shadab (since I was informed Paradise had lost its flavour and touch) and binged on some yummy kebabs and chicken curry and naan. My dodo CG asks the waiter - "Is this Shadab food better than the outlet next to XXXX Hills?" Clearly offended, the dude actually snatched away our menus and said - I will make you eat our specialty which is waaaayyy better than the other Shadab. Ouch.

Anyway once we were stomach full, we headed to Charminar (by then, a very minor migraine had become my companion)...

Now the road to Charminar I'm sure are paved with good intentions but WHAT THE HECK! - The fountain facing the monument - gutter water coming out (and I, like a fool, went close to it to get a long shot of the Minar) Guess who almost barfed - almost!

Mousambi wanted pearl earrings - so CG and me - clueless about anything remotely shiny, opal and round, went searching - and whatever we liked or thought was appropriate - we got messages back saying - Noooooooooo!!!!! Baaaaahhhh hum bug. But on the bright side, we got to sit in fancy AirCon shops so we were grateful for the minor reprieve from the sweltering heat.

Honestly, the Hyderabad heat frazzled me to the core - Gimme an AC room - and I'd have slept right until Christmas probably. I really dunno how one gets work done in this city. It was too hot and it's not even SUMMER! Lol.

Back to Charminar. Had some lovely sugarcane juice and we headed to conquer the Minar.

Seriously, sometimes I wonder how the heck did I run/ jog a 21K when I was feeling the ache by the time we reached the top. While the view of the entire city is worth the climb, the structure in itself is a disgrace. The entire architecture has been damaged and I believe it's beyond salvage at this point because the scribbings, the doodles and the Meena loves Amar scrawls have ruined its beauty. Felt really bad. Worse is, the security which is present now - is probably a little too late for comfort. Going down was a pain - plenty of people with vertigo - men especially!


Next we headed to the Blue Mosque but weren't allowed in cause CG was in three fourths while I needed a scarf/ stole to enter. Dropped the plan and decided to head to Nimrah cafe for some Irani Tea and biscuits. All those visiting Hyderabad need to check out this place for the tea but more importantly for their kickass - Osmania biscuits. Priced at a delicious Rs 2 for 1, these mouth watering tea biscuits just melt in your mouth.

From there we decided to head back home, relax a little cause I was beat and figure out some evening plans. Talking, yapping, swapping stories and after a lovely guitar session - it was 9pm!

We dressed real quick and headed to a place called Cocos. Chilled out joint with a live band playing - spent a relaxed evening singing along to some much loved tunes. Thanks for reminding me about - Turn the Page! Respect :D

We next headed for ice cream but this was some fancy shwancy ice cream - Delicious! By the time we got back it was about 1am. Off to snooze!

Morning started late - 11am, I think - Learning how handy I was in the kitchen, CG made breakfast. Forever humiliated but don't really care. I snoozed again (He kept saying - how much you sleep) Dude! Seriously? The weather was making me drowsy!

Plan for the day was Golconda Fort - where once we reached, we were asked at the ticket counter to shell out Rs 150 each for being foreigners. CG obviously all hair ruffled - aare hum log idhar ke hi hain (in some shitty Hyderabadi dialect-cum-lingo-cum-accent). Me - I was laughing, I like playing foreigner.

We got fleeced royally, all thanks to me, by the guide (I had to ask for an English guide since the Hindi to English translation in my brain wasn't working :P). His English - priceless. "The King. Stay here. 360 wives. One room. One wife. All jump in water. Commit suicide when King die. Lot of Rani and Raja commit suicide today. So tourism close this area." CG and me look at each - grins all around!!!!


He did show us some real interesting things and told us a lot of facts and history - but I'm just going to read up more on it as I kind of doubt his version of the Fort. He said he picked up English from talking to people like us - I think we did a very poor job indeed. The Fort luckily is still standing, whatever Aurangzeb decided to not break down after laying siege it seems for about six months. We climbed over 750 stairs both ways.

The most annoying thing after we gave him Rs 600 (for which there was no receipt) he bothered us for a tip. We were going to give him a tip anyway but his brazen demands to give one which soon turned to begging really turned us off and we left the place soon, utterly disappointed that it came down to this.

Since we had a late brunch, we decided to order in Mutton Biryani from Shadab back home. SLLLUUURRRPPPP! Half a kg rice - we finished at least 80% with all the mutton over!

All tucked in, we started jamming again and this time I played my first Hindi song - will put it up on YouTube soon for all to see and die of giggles. :P

In the middle of the main lane, a mountain of cow dung was kept and lit to mark the Holi fire. We went down to take a couple of shots and see people trying to get some of the dung which they were putting in vessels. I dunno what that was about. Heading back up to change we realised we were a bit hungry again.

Left for Chutneys - which as the name suggests serves about 6-8 varieties of chutneys with your South Indian delicacy. I had a Steam Dosa which it is famous for while CG gobbled up a Masala Dosa. Once we got done, we were feeling extremely bloated and decided to do the 2km walk home. CG says - he always feels bloated after leaving Chutneys. Too much Sodium probably :/

We crashed again as Sir ji was kind enough to take a half day the following day (even though it was Holi but not a public holiday). Woke up late again and had sweet potatoes for breakfast, some yummy concoction of oats, yogurt, nuts, plums, etc... the recipe for which only CG knows. I went back to snooze - sue me - but we just found the AC remote (the AC was left by the previous tenant) and I was loving it!!!

Lunch was at this restaurant called Kritunga - This has to officially be one of the best BESTEST of the BEST meals I've had in forever.

CG's friend Mukund, who's passion is to eat anything and everything possible (dunno WTF he is doing in IT) knows the ins and outs of FOOD, FLAVOURS and FOOD JOINTS. He talks to you and mid sentence he gets side tracked if he sees a dish going to another table. Rofl! Very rarely do you get to meet someone interesting and an expert in something other than the usual career crap. The food he ordered for us was mind boggling! My first bite and I was sweating. After two glasses of coke, two glasses of water, I still wanted to eat more and I kept telling them - guys, my ass better not get on fire - I have to travel by fucking bus to Bombay!!! All they did was giggle, eat and sweat. Pigs.

We had the Nattukodi (Chicken Curry - Desi Chicken), Korameenu Fish, a Mutton Curry, and a freaking fantastic Andhra Chicken Biryani - I knew I'd died and gone to heaven after eating here. I want to go back to Hyderabad - ONLY TO EAT AT KRITUNGA!!!


We left and headed to Karachi Bakery to buy the usual for the usual suspects. went home and snoozed again, okay, fine, I snoozed again for an hour, packed my bags, and departed to the place where the mini bus would pick me up and transport me to the main bus.

I thoroughly enjoyed myself and hope to repay CG for his warmth, kindness and hospitality when he decides to head to Mumbai. Really appreciate you Jaaneman!

Now the funny thing about the main bus - so there I was waiting along with everyone else for the big bus to arrive and I notice how beautiful the full moon is with its orange tinge. I quickly remove the camera and take out a few pics, only to turn around and find, all the people who are to board my bus are nowhere in sight and I see a big bus going in the distance. I don't get cold anymore. I just stand stock still and go - Oh crap. No. Not again... I ask a guy standing close by - was that the bus to Bombay which just left - he said "oh no" (phew) "Your bus is parked a bit at the back and you need to go there."

So I quickly stuffed the camera in my backpack and ran. Reach my seat thanking my stars I didn't miss my transport (again) only to realise I'm a little light in terms of luggage. I had forgotten the sweets! So I just left my bag on the seat and ran back (I really need to start running again) - only to find my sweets are missing. Grrrrrrrr. The same gentleman came forward and handed my bag to me saying - he'd been searching for me to hand it over. Thank you my Sweet Saviour (:

Ran back to the bus, popped a pill and slept (again). Woke up in time to get off and walk home.

A 'Holi'-day well spent, indeed.

Turning 29 ain't so bad after all (:

After planning for over two months, Bhutan came crashing - in my face two weeks before we had to leave. From a duet, it became a solo sojourn. Best way to backpack, to be honest.

After three days of sleepless nights, crying, tossing, working everyone around me up because it looked like I was going to feel old in good ol' Mumbai itself, my colleagues helped me pick a place... Ranthambhore and Jaipur, to go.


So the checklist included:
Accommodation - check
Agenda - check
Travel tickets train and flight - check
Safaris - tripple check!
Food - Wing it (:

Took a train to Sawai Madhopur and reached Bombay Central an hour and a half early. One thing I learned from my Kolkata Krazzziesss - have one hour to spare but just get there!!! The train journey was lovely - clean, comfortable and decent people. I expected to feel lonely but everyone kept calling to see if I was fine. Sometimes I feel people mother and worry about 'independent' me too much - but it's a nice feeling knowing there are people who care enough to call. Whether I pick up or no is a different tale :P

Sawai Madhopur:
I got off the station and headed to the Tourist office on the platform to get some souveniers for Pudlu and bugged them with a 100 questions and they obliged by answering them politely and offering their contact numbers in case I got lost or 'confused'.

The driver came to pick me up and we headed in the jeep to The Ranthambhore Bagh. Good thing Imran is sooo close, and yet sooo far! He recommended a really comfy place to stay at in Sawai Madhopur and I'll always cherish the memory. I loved the ambiance from the moment I got to the reception. My room was nice and cozy, the water took awhile to get hot since it was friggin cold! But I think I adjusted well enough - I had packed a decent amount of woolies.

My backpack was the best - I mean I actually bought a backpack and I've quite made up my mind to do more trips in the future. I had about 5 pieces of clothing in all and one outfit for the night which I ended up doing a safari in also... Canadian jacket zindabad man!

The first safari was in the evening and was hilarious and I'll admit confusing since we had eight South Bombay 21 year olds in our Canter with five girls coming in bum shorts and one fool who came in stilettos. I died, internally, as the foreigner couple who were also from the Bagh stared at me, wondering how come I wasn't idiotically dressed like them, I guess. They delayed us by a good 20 mins forgetting to carry ID proof but finally we were on our way.

This was my first safari and I'll always remember it for the jaw dropping look I had on my face throughout the three hour drive into Ranthambhore National Park. I've never seen so many heavenly beings here on earth. It truly was a humbling experience to be one with nature especially when we waited patiently to listen to "Tiger warning calls".

Had a lovely dinner at the Bagh and the foreigner couple and me bonded and swapped some interesting tales of India and the UK. Next morning was the start to my amazing 29 and honestly - I felt like a 19 year old!!! My best birthday gift - seeing a Leopardess - Up. Close. In Person. She'd just killed a male Sambar Deer and he was lying on the road and she'd waited for over 4-5 hours to get close to her kill and I guess she couldn't stay away anymore so came out in the open and enthralled all of us. Leopards are extremely shy we were told and you're considered extremely lucky to spot one. Much more easier to spot a tiger... which I didn't spot though... But I was on a major high by the time we got back as I'd seen a freakin LEOPARDESS!!!

Decided to do one more safari and this time had a mini-celebrity guide - Salim who by the way also shared my birthday. Salim was a co-anchor in an award winning documentary Broken Tail. He's also part of the team at the Bagh, I guess, cause he knew people there well. It's a different experience every time you enter the forest because every turn offers you something, I dunno - hope, maybe? - that life is so beautiful if only you grasp it in its entirety.

The Rufous Treepie is officially my all time favourite bird along with the Jungle Babbler not to forget seeing tons of squirrels. The war between these three creatures for crumbs from people was hilarious! I've got an amazing NatGeo video clip on my camera. So now I've officially seen the Sambar Deer, Cheetal or Spotted Deer, Spotted Owl, partridges, the smallest duck, a type of Mongoose, a type of Crocodile, Leopardess (woot woot) and some gazillion kinds of species...

The evening ended with a bonfire, a lovely meal and a beautiful birthday cake prepared especially for your's truly :P Salim was around too so we both cut the cake, fed each other and NO - we weren't pronounced husband and wife...

I went to bed by 11 as Salim offered to take me to Ranthambhore Fort in the morning. We spent a lot of time photographing the amazing birds around the fort. I didn't know Peacocks could fly... ha ha ha. I stood all mouth wide open kinds when one glided past me... We spent a good three hours at the Fort and I was just trying to gobble everything up. I actually envied Salim at that point - doing this for a living - that ain't working - that's LIVING!

Went back to the hotel, with a heavy heart bid adieu to my lovely tent-styled room and walked about 3 km to the railway station. Waited quietly for the train to take me to Jaipur.

Jaipur:
My first instinct of Jaipur (usually my first instinct is always wrong and it was proven again) was ewwww and ugh! People lying around the station almost dead types, the chaos (you're probably thinking, how can someone from filthy Mumbai call Jaipur chaotic?) but yeah, it does get overwhelming for a tourist.




My first hotel - Krishna Palace, I felt was a rip off. For 1500 bucks, while the room was nice, albeit cold, all I got was a tiny bar of soap. I'm particular about toilet paper and if it's not there, it ain't worth it. Namshit booked me another hotel for the remaining two days which was a palace compared to that .... Rani Mahal Palace (yep, all palaces - what can I say) for 800 bucks was my queendom and efficient with everything. I really loved my stay here.

When I landed in Jaipur I rearranged my schedule (one of the perks of travelling alone) and decided to visit Choki Dhani in the evening. I had the most terrible person for Jaipur Tourism as my taxi-auto driver!

Everyone was his "dhooshman" and he had somehow been involved in all kinds of stories revolving around Indira Gandhi, Rajiv Gandhi, Narasimha Rao, Jaswant Singh and I was stupefied but dutifully said "uh huh" and a couple of "ooohhhh - appne sahi kaha". I asked him what kind of famous Jaipur sweets should I take back to Mumbai? "Madam, yaha pe kuch bhi acha nahi hain." LMFAO. Okay, bye bye.

Choki Dhani was bleh. I had visited it in Indore as well and didn't enjoy the food and it still left a lot to be desired even after a good eight years. I made a lovely pot and an incense holder which reminds me - I need to collect it from someone. Got some souveniers for some pains in the asses back home and left by 10.30 and reached the hotel at 11.

Next day I visited Ahmir Palace and had an excellent guide, Rajesh, who took me and another couple through the 'ins' and 'out's of the Palace, often mistakenly called the Fort and even got a buddy of his to take me to Jaigarh Fort by bike (: I saw this huge cannon and the history behind it and the cannon ball is really something.

The view from the very top - perfect. My first proper view of Jal Mahal was from up there. After a couple of sneaky photos, we headed back down where they took me to a sounvenier store and I bought myself my first lehenga - very sober but looked pretty cool - especially in my sneakers :D I had a mini heart burn when the store keeper swiped my Amex for 200,000 rs instead of 2 grand - and i even punched in my chip!!!



The next morning was the shocker! It's 7am (I know cause I checked my watch) and the landline is ringing frantically and I told myself "I'm gonna yell at the desk guy when I leave" - rolled over to the phone's side and said "hello" - and the desk guy says "Madam, aapka koi mehman aaya hain" (Madam, you've got a guest here). I sat up straight in panic. I'd been giving my phone number, email ID, where I'm staying in Jaipur, what my plans are to every Tom, Dick and Jane...I thought one of the Tom's had come. So in full panic mode I told him "mera yaha pein koi mehman nahi hain!!!" and then I hear a slight scuffle and a voice which says "Harami darwaja khol" GUESS WHO SCREAMED!!!

Miss Commander in Chief of Jet comes and shocks the shit out of me!!! Bestest craziest lady ever! Can't meet me in Goregaon but flies from Mumbai to Jaipur just to spend a day with me. I bet you don't have an awesome friend like that - I BET!!!! We covered the whole of touristy Jaipur and ate some lovely aloo chat and craptacular pani puri and binged on some kulfi to keep ourselves from melting. It hurt to drop her at the airport - I mean, I really didn't want to let her go. She was my reminder that I had to get back to Bombay the next day (Ugh!).

I had planned to finish the Albert museum the next morning before I headed to the airport but all I did was loll around in my big fat bed with my nine pillows... princess - Something I haven't felt like - ever, probably.

Finally, it was time to bid adieu. Head to the airport by rick and just drinking everything that Jaipur had to offer.

Trip takeaways:
One of the learnings on this trip is if you dress sober, talk politely, conduct yourself and address people with dignity, make the effort to fit in, and in general are kind - people in turn are much more friendlier. NO ONE - no, really, NO ONE - is out to get you or take you for a ride, unless you give them opportunities to do so (:

I really believe having a professional guide does wonders for a historical or cultural experience. Having a guide who is fluent with wildlife is another high altogether. Both the guides I had were exceptionally smart, well mannered and knew their history well. I even shook my guide's hand in appreciation at Ahmir Palace when he told me some fascinating story about a carving. It's the small things that count and showing appreciation really shows people's genuineness.

Another learning from this trip is the rapt silence which follows. Can you hear it? In the still ness of your room, the forest, in the fort, in the bus, the train... it was all around me. I was at peace - far far away from family, from work, from worry, from Mumbai, from everything. I just didn't want to come back and be part of the routine that is my sorry existence.

There are times when you get emotional, especially when you see people happy with the little they have and you thank the heavens for the humility by which you can view this and still feel greatful that you can witness their peace.

I felt safe in a city where most people told me I was crazy to go to. I felt more comfortable than Mumbai. People didn't stare at me, didn't oggle me, didn't make fun of me or my clothes, they got on with their day as I did mine. Why the hell can't the rest of this country be like this? I really do wonder.

For now... merci and adieu~