When I decided to agree to Kashmir
over Thailand, I didn't think much about it. The goal was to just get out of
Mumbai. I wanted either a time out or a time out, permanently.
My soul is exhausted. Beyond anything
I've been feeling these last couple of years and now that the BIG 3.0 comes
closer, it's starting to break, at the drop of a speck of dust. So how can a getaway, in a
land torn by war and fictitious peace, a land where tales of human suffering
make headlines in the inside pages of every National paper daily, a land which
our neighbour's claim as a masterpiece in their jigsaw puzzle --- piece the
fragments of my wayward soul?
While my (AAA) plane hovered over
Srinagar's skies just before landing, all I could think of is, will this journey
heal me 'or' be the end of me? Will I make my peace or return to Mumbai in
pieces? Will I forgive myself or will I return an empty shell.
My first stop was Srinagar. It took
an hour to reach but that hour seemed infinite as I drank in everything and
anything that is a new city. The air was pure and pristine. The trees were
dancing. The sky - a perfect hue. The smiles (even behind veils) were
genuine. The customary greetings of "warai chakay" were music to my ears.
It
was a perfect day!
Yet, the cynic in me couldn't
believe that this was real. It couldn't be, right? I mean, come on. I've lived
in Toronto for two years and if you compare both habitats, everything is similar --- and yet, how come Kashmiris, who've seen, heard and gone through so much in life,
be so much more loving... caring... giving...?
It can't be real, no way.
From wading through the silent Dal Lake in a Shikara, stopping at the Char-e-Chinar, staring in rapt glee at
the Zabarwan Mountains as I silently prayed that I'd never forget their strength and
solitude, from heading back to our beautifully kept house-boat to having a meal
fit for a queen - it was such a blessing to end my first day in Kashmir on such
a high note. Can't forget to mention Bilal and Mushi, Mushu and Mushay!
My second day's itinerary was to
head to Gulmarg - for the Gondola Cable ride. I also have to mention that I'm a
very seasoned, yet poor traveller who lived on Avomine throughout this trip 'cause my tummy wasn't acting like a honey.
I kept saying that if I ever moved
to Kashmir, Avomine's mallik's would make a decent sale with my subscription.
The ride to Gulmarg included a stop at an Apple farm which also doubled and
trippled as a Pear farm, Pomegranate farm, Walnut farm etc. But it was nice to
experience. I was surprised that I'd be staying overnight in Gulmarg. My
travel agent - Kings Holidayz, decided the confirmed itinerary that was shared needed a major
overhaul. There were no complaints.
The Gondola Cable Ride was another
thing altogether. The total journey of 14,000 feet above sea level,
is made up of two elevations where you can either choose to get off at the
first stage or change cars and carry on. Looming large, in my face was the
Apervath Mountains with its peaks covered in fragments of ice-slush snow and saw people sledding, going on a pony ride, having a steaming cup of coffee - 14,000
feet high!
A trek to the summit was in order
and I slowly made my way to the top and then down again a bit - drinking in the
far off snow clad peaks, the pleasant yet chilly weather, watching the CRPF always patrolling the area, and the multitudes of boulders around me.
And as I sat and closed my eyes, the
tears fell. Silent ones, not the heart pounding ones, just the quiet ones
- of the pleasure of being witness to so much majestic brilliance in our land
and the magic that it was playing on my soul.
The temples, mosques, the one church
and gurudwara that we visited - each had a persona of its own. Each told a
vibrant story and yet it was artfully presented - not over the top. The view of
Srinagar from the Shankaracharya Temple will, hopefully, forever be etched in
my memory.
Sitting on the car's luggage
carrier, dancing on the roads, seeing the world through Om's skies and eyes, rolling down hills right outside the church and
into the golf course, sledding minus the sled, puffing away the cold, way
past bedtime conversations, Kulfi stopovers, dancing on the road, sleeping on
the road, snaan ka tashaan, fake white water rafting, dipping hands and feet in
ice ice @#&%%##^#$#@ baby water, Tabak Maaz...
I honestly don't know what captured my very spirit. I can't pinpoint when I
fell in love with this divine out-of-this-WORLD location and its people.
Was it
when I headed to Betaab Valley, Chandanwari and Aru Valley or was it when I got on my three month pregnant Ma Cherie - "Cheery
Bulbul", as she took me trotting, albeit with me a little uncertain, to Neelnag and Doodh Ganga or that mind
boggling single Kashmiri red rose which was a deal breaker at Nishat Baug to finding solace in the Lidder River.
On
the cuisine: I missed out on the Wazwan but I ended up gobbling so much mutton,
I think I ate about 4 goats in 10 days. True story!
Rogan Josh, Gustaba, Rishta,
and I've forgotten the other names.... sigh* - the mind wanders...
So much more I'd love to say, but I can't put it into words. This is my
dedication to Kashmir, its beautiful hospitality, wonderful people and
culture, and its genuine genuineness in a world which rarely sees an open face - Mera Pranam.
Hum tere bin ab reh nahi sakte
Tere bina kya wajood mera
Tujhse juda gar ho jaayenge
Toh khud se hi ho jaayenge judaa
Tera mera rishta hai kaisa
Ik pal door gawara nahi
Tere liye har roz hai jeete
Tujh ko diya mera waqt sabhi
Koi lamha mera na ho tere bina
Har saans pe naam tera
Tere liye hi jiya main
Khud ko jo yun de diya hai
Teri wafa ne mujhko sambhala
Saare ghamon ko dil se nikala
Tere saath mera hai naseeb juda
Tujhe paake adhoora naa raha hmm.
Kyunki tum hi ho
Ab tum hi ho
Zindagi ab tum hi ho
Chain bhi, mera dard bhi
Meri aashiqui ab tum hi ho
Now... GASDAFA back to work! :P
